A Conspiracy of Trash

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Monday, 2 June 2014

FASHION: DEDICATED FOLLOWER OF…

The words of the title belong to a really good pop song sung by The Kinks in the 1960’s. In this post however they refer to the very visible habits or popular fashions adopted by the British people in recent decades many of which would be strange or peculiar to say the least to observers of British cultural life before 1980. Today there are strange fashions abroad among the British people to do some very strange things. Some are so strong that they’re almost cultural imperatives, calling for the adoption of practices that would have seemed seriously out of place in the 1940’s and 50’s, and unusual at best even from the 1960’s, a supposedly swinging and liberated time, up till the end of the eighties.. Essentially the habits and fashions to which I currently refer here have been aspects of British cultural life that have rapidly exploded onto the scene since the mid nineteen-nineties.  

They do not belong to youth alone. Generally speaking they are certainly not the sole property of teenagers nor do they belong to any distinct social class though some I’d point out are the almost exclusive property of one particular social class or another. Therefore unlike the individual adept to whom I refer in the title, the people of whom I speak here are broad social groups, sometimes within social classes, occasionally almost entire social classes themselves that take up the habit or fashion. Something  that’s so pronounced, so observable that it might almost be described as a social fact, a sociological phenomenon.

Let’s therefore take a look at some of the habits and fashions of these times. The growing, ever accelerating fashion among men, mostly between the ages of 18-40 for individual self-adornment took off from the early 1990’s. However it has also taken hold among those who are older, even in their sixties and seventies! The phenomenon is predominantly an underclass, working and lower middle class pre-occupation. In this there is a clear and direct correlation with the demise of traditional male roles in an industrial society that were an outcome of Margaret Thatcher’s economic policies of the 1980’s which brought about a severe decline across the whole spectrum of industrial production from mining, shipbuilding and heavy engineering to manufacturing and the building trades. These were replaced by the services and financial sector. More importantly however large communities of the industrial working class along with a communal philosophy were replaced by a new philosophy of personal individualism. It is from within this context that the growing phenomenon of individual self-adornment should be viewed.

The nature of this individual self-adornment is now visible for all to see and consists of the new general fashion of men in the social classes referred to above wearing earrings and being engraved with tattoos. The fashion for both is now commonplace so that individual self-adornment is no longer an individual attribute but a social characteristic. It’s something new. Something not previously observed. There are many reasons that might account for this but the most plausible to my mind revolves round the issue of identity. Alongside the demise of industrial occupations and communities has come that of old certainties. Society has evolved as a shiftless, amorphous and uncertain entity, particularly in the realm of employment, and with it has come an uneasy sense of individualism. With past certainties doomed and behind them among which is the breakup of traditional family structures and the stability they engendered, young people were and are faced with a growing identity crisis. The spirit of community in Britain is dead. The spirit of individualism alive and kicking. It’s new manifestation cannot be communal, with the prime exception of support for a football team. It has to be individual and personal. Hence the explosion of the fashion for personal bodily adornment.

Stud earrings for men. Also a generalised habit in the gay community. Tattoos for men and women. Arms, legs, faces and heads, and for many middle aged ladies a rose tattooed above the bottom crease. One can only think that large numbers of husbands don’t find the irony distasteful! In recent years this search for identity has become a copycat habit. In the hands of skilled practitioners it has become a skilled art form and mighty expensive. Here I leave the subject with one simple thought. Those who’ve adorned themselves in their need to establish identity might just as easily have found self-adornment in mind as much as body through education, travel and self-awareness. Tattoos and earrings are a concerted attempt at visible display Educated men and woman can equally display their new identity to others through their intelligence and a caring spirit.

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Another new social fashion among young men and women not seen as a social fact until recently is alcohol abuse, drunken and anti-social behaviour openly and publically on the streets of towns across Britain. As a mass phenomenon it’s widespread and has spilled over into the package holiday resorts of south and east Europe as a vile and distasteful attribute of uncontrolled individualism. For the Europeans this expression of our youth is also something new. The fashion for this conduct home and abroad undoubtedly has its origin in the removal of restrictions which licensed the sale of alcohol by the New Labour Government of Tony Blair.

Pubs, clubs and bars could now sell alcohol round the clock, a fact exploited by manufacturers and retailers through the medium of price reduction. It meant unlimited alcohol being available to youths and adults 24/7, the former entirely incapable of dealing with the danger now put on a plate.

The streets of city centres on Friday and Saturday nights are a public forum for uncontrolled behaviour that quite frankly is needless. Young people going out to have a drink and enjoy themselves become prey to other emotions that have nothing to do with pleasure. In the late hours of night too many of them become victim to their own hopeless ineptitude. To an uncontrolled individualism that has its psychological seeds in a violent, turbulent family life. They become the flotsam and jetsam of recent history.  Products of rapid and violent social change over which they have no understanding and little control. Their conduct is an expression of the new individualism. Bad enough for the lads but entirely new and particularly disturbing among women and girls. A kind of wholesale liberation of female individualism in public displays of lewdness and foul-mouthed verbiage that was once though unladylike.

It’s part of the new social fashion for an individualism lacking traditional values and personal control. And with a future that may run in tandem with anger and aggression and entirely more sinister modes of personal conduct
 
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I now want to touch on another notable though somewhat sordid fashion of recent times and that is the gruesome, stunningly embarrassing phenomenon of Hen Parties. Many of us have seen their participants. A dozen or more scantily clad ladies if you can call them that staggering out of their hotel onto the street wearing a furry red antennae headdress, ultra short bum revealing skirts with their fat legs and thighs encased in fishnet stockings perched on four inch stilettos and large L Plates pinned to the backs of their carefully contrived bulging blouses. Don’t worry, it’s only a suggestion. Clearly they’re no longer learners by any means, the majority more like instructors, married or not, capable of giving just about any man a serious refresher course after six vodka tonics. Sorry, I forgot to mention the balloons. In the case of these randy adventurettes most important for buoyancy!

For the more upmarket parties they may be seen getting out of a stretch limo and piling into a City Centre bar but for most it’s a walk to a pub for a well-planned last night as a single girl for the bride of the morrow. Her last night as a single woman with her friends all around her, all play acting at being randy bitches or are they? I mean only play acting! The pub specializes in such antics. They’ve become routine. Almost a drag. Well not quite if you know what I mean. It’s well known for catering for such sexually explicit heat-fests with dirty suggestive language galore and an experienced male stripper with bulging pectorals and tight leather pants to put the whole atmosphere on a Bunsen burner and titillate the Hens to a frenzy if not the Queen of the Night who they might heavily prompt, if she’s foolish enough to comply, to do something on her knees in front of the stripper with her head covered by a towel that she might have serious cause to regret later!

Most Hen Parties are lewd but then there are distinct levels of lewdness. What a Hen Party is not is sedate. They are explicit expressions of licentiousness among and between women for the purpose of giving their friend, a soon to be bride, a memorably bawdy send-off that will accompany her into the world of domesticity. A reminder of the loss of freedom. An experience of the last chance saloon of eternal pleasure!

 

As a social phenomenon Hen Parties date back no further than three decades and as a serious fashion probably closer to two. There are specific areas of the United Kingdom that are famous well established venues such as the north-east of England with its center in Newcastle. In fact the pubs and bars of whole sections of the city are given over to such jollification. This gives us a clue into the character of these events and the social class of their participants. There’s no denying it. Hen Parties are the prerogative of working class and lower middle class women. They are most definitely not a self-expression of middle class femininity. Their aim, essentially, is to achieve a sexual communality at the most basic and common of levels. True, they’re basically meant to be fun. A sexually frivolous send off. But copious amounts of alcohol having been consumed they can fall off the sharp end of the spectrum of naughtiness.

Working class Hen Parties are full of working class values and behavioral norms. Different today to what they once were thirty years back they now contain the individualism and a sexually liberated mentality that saw its first spark in the sixties but only bloomed thirty years later. Even so there’s a real contradiction at work here. This particular rite of passage has now achieved the status of fashion but it’s a rite celebrating an essentially ancient tradition and just as important, mass phenomenon though it may be it’s also a highly lucrative business.

That said there’s still something deliciously sordid about them. Women young and old dressed up in a kind of perverse desperation… only too often looking and acting like tarts in a public display that comes close to the ludicrous to any outside observer. Looked at dispassionately, as an increasingly fashionable and popular ritual, this new form of self-expression is part of a generalised shift of working class female identity. Of a sexually liberated identity perhaps that could only emerge in the new post-industrial Britain.

Most men are happy taking a peep at a Hen Party on the move but they’re not allowed in. Sorry, didn’t you know they’re restricted!
 
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Finally one of the new fashions I wish to consider is that of obesity. I’m talking female obesity. Grossly fat women. Today they appear before our eyes just about everywhere. We’ve become familiar with oversized, overweight women in recent decades and now it’s a sight that we live with. Something that’s relatively new. A condition we might have seen only occasionally in the four decades following the Second World War. Today we see it on a regular basis. Again it’s an underclass, working and lower middle class phenomenon. In some cases its cause is physical. A medical disorder of one kind or another. In other cases its cause lies in psychological factors. An eating disorder perhaps. Even so there’s no getting away from the fact that both men and women eat far more these days than they did four, five or six decades back.

Consider the circumstances. Twenty years ago few people regularly snacked out on the streets or drank coffee likewise. Now it’s a habit adopted by millions. The lunchtime snack has become fashionable, served by the newly created availability of a wide variety of comestibles provided by supermarkets, sandwich and baguette bars and cafes. Weightwatcher type pasta and salad snacks have become highly fashionable along with the continental baguette. In short people are eating more because it’s only in recent decades that snack type meals have become so readily available. Without it the new eating out habit would barely exist and less food be consumed. It is therefore safe to assume that the new commercially fed availability of pre-prepared food is responsible in most cases for overconsumption and obesity.      

True, other factors such as those outlined above may come into play. However the cause of obesity plainly lies in over-eating but then it’s not as straightforward as that. In large part the growing wave of obesity ties in with eating food containing excessive fat and the participants of the habit taking little to no exercise. To put matters plainly the fat isn’t burnt off and has nowhere to go except circulate within the body of the consumer so a habit of years results in the obesity we witness today. And alas, equally serious is the fact that it has increasingly become visible in children.

This is a working class, underclass phenomenon among whom eating fast foods in burger or chicken restaurant chains became fashionable from the 1980’s and has now evolved into a tidal wave of quick and easy consumption. It became fashionable. Relieved women of the burden of cooking, turning consumption into an equitable outdoors social affair rather than the traditional shared experience of eating at home. A new commercial tradition therefore replaced that of family, much in line with the fragmentation of old communal values of a former industrial society. More broadly it became part of a new less active culture, that of consuming rather than doing.

Readily available consumption in the shape of food with a higher fat content, coupled with the changing less active character of work has slowly but surely led to the fashion for obesity that’s with us today and it will take far more than the strictures of celebrity chefs to free a fair volume of the population, especially women, from the excess fat they carry. It will take a revolution more than anything. A situation where working class women don’t much like how they look and the discomfort of the weight that they carry, start getting hard- nosed about their condition and become determined to change it. Eat less and healthier, start taking exercise in any spare time that they have, regain their confidence and begin looking lovely all over again.

Tattoos, earrings and Hen Parties are fashions that are silly. Obesity is a fashion that’s harmful. All of these will eventually pass, when people start respecting themselves once again.

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